Just to backpedal slightly, I need to mention how Max added significantly to the local color on the way to Simla, turning shades of green and purple as the driver played Himalayan Chicken and the guide pointed out a gondola stretched high above a large valley. Apparently a few years ago, the gondola had some problems and the passengers had to be rescued by helicopter. Except for the acrophobic gentleman who couldn't stand the fear and just jumped. "He did the right thing, " says Max. The guides kept encouraging us to stop and take a picture of the vistas but when we finally concur, we realize they both just needed to run behind a tree and take a leak.
We finally arrive in Simla (4 hours, 80 miles). Our hotel is at the western end of the main drag, called The Mall. Simla (pronounced "Shimla" and also sometimes spelled that way) became the summer capital of the British government in India in 1864, as the Brits needed to escape the heat and humidity of Delhi and Calcutta. It's the capital of Himachal Pradesh, literally "Snow Province", but we have unusually clear and sunny weather in the low 60's.
Our hotel, the Oberoi Cecil is, as my father would say, a lodge that "had a chance and took it". It belongs in the Himalayas, but is elegant. We're seated in the lounge while Sanjeev checks us in and we're given hot towels to refresh, then escorted to our room by a lovely young assistant manager. The room is smaller than The Imperial, but just as nice, with a view of both The Mall and the Himalayas.
After decompressing with a scotch, we head off to become Mall rats. The walk into town along The Mall is fascinating. It's Saturday evening and everyone is out. There's lots of laughter, no traffic (it's banned on The Mall), great people watching, no beggars - a very laid-back un-Delhi kind of atmosphere. As it becomes dark, the lights come on, the crowds get louder, it's almost a party atmosphere as we drink in the aromas of roadside food vendors cooking in huge wok-like receptacles for the Saturday night crowd. There are monkeys everywhere, scampering down the steep alleys leading to the lower streets, carrying babies on their backs. It's one of those Magic Travel Moments.
Back at the Cecil, we have dinner in an almost deserted restaurant. The chicken caesar salad is made with a delicious spicy chicken. When we order drinks, we are given the choice of regular or large. We've seen the paltry splashes of scotch considered "regular", so we order "large". Apparently, this means they increase the serving size to 1 1/2 oz. instead of 1 oz. For about $11 each. Our beds have been readied, curtains closed, fruit delivered and we're definitely ready for bed. What a day.
Sunday: In today's news, 20 labourers were crushed to death in Mumbai when a wall they were working on collapsed. Once again, tragedy only deserved a page 20, two-inch column story. This incident doesn't surprise us. We've seen India's construction methods. To build a second concrete story, they prop up 4x8 sheets of plywood with tree branches and then pour the cement on top. Their scaffolding is made on the spot by lashing bamboo stalks together.
The best part of the Sunday paper was the Matrimonials section. These are pages of ads placed not for companionship, but for marriage. They are organized in sections. If you are searching for some one in your caste, you have your ad in the "caste" section. Same for religion, locality and language. Some of the ads mention that they've been married before, but it was only a "Visa Marriage". This doesn't mean the wedding was paid for by credit card, but rather refers to a marriage that allowed them to get an American visa, or green card. The ads use the words "girl" and "boy", because there are so many marriages that are still arranged at a very early age. The guys invariably ask for a "very beautiful girl", although many of their ads are placed by the family, the boy being too young.
B'fast is served by two young handsome lads (see photo above), who tell us their names mean "Truth" and "Love" and then stand side by side, point to each other and chime "true love!" The food is delicious and includes waffles served with hot ghee, syrup, Australian bacon, sweet lime juice and small slices of apple in a devonshire cream and jam.
It's time to collect our box lunches and hit the road with Sanjeev.
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