Saturday, 3 March 2007

The Tuckermobile


There is a rule that one of us must get a present from the Airport Zone whenever we travel by air. I am awarded the supreme headcold of the century. We begin Max and Tucker's Excellent Adventure Day by crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, taking the obligatory picture that everyone in the the world has taken, and cruising Sausalito in search of a large box of Puff's Plus. It is going to be a 60 Kleenex Day and I insist on the best. Sausalito is a harbor town with many modern, bohemian homes clinging to cliffs. Very pricey, but feels like the place has seen its heyday in the seventies. And there isn't a market to be found.


Off to Napa valley then. (I am reduced to a runny eyed, sneezing mess using napkins from the airport until we can find a proper grocery store...poetic) I am THE navigator when we are in the car. Tucker has default control over the television clicker. We make a side trip in the Oakville area and get directions to the local Safeway. We even looked like tourists in the grocery store, apparently, because everyone wanted to help us and then quickly replied that I should keep my distance from them. But I have located the treasure!


I selected the Niebaum/Copolla Winery as our first visit of the day and I take full and luxurious credit for the choice. Fabulous. Absolutely fabulous. They rolled out the red carpet for us, literally. The parking attendant took care of the car and a tuxedoed greeter explained that this tour would be a $25 bill each, but it included a tour of the facility, admission to the museum and a tasting of 5 of their finest wines. This stop was worth every cent and more. One approaches this stone "castle", built into the side of a hill which holds the tunnels used as their wine cellars, under a beautiful grape arbor that is an exact replica of the one in the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris. We had about 40 minutes before the next tour and decide to browse through the museum first.


We were expecting something on the art of making fine wine. We climb the most gorgeous staircase in the world and arrive in a large room that houses all of the memorabilia from Francis Ford Coppolla's achievements in the motion picture business. Cases of Oscars, Golden Globe Awards and Cannes Festival awards. The desk from the Godfather, the props and costumes from Anthony Hopkins portrayal of Dracula, and the one and only Tucker automobile. See the movie. It is a great, true story of a legend of American ingenuity and integrity, because Tucker destroyed most all of the cars and designs when Detroit sold out on their promise to produce the car by its specified design and intent. Lots of antique collectibles that Coppolla has acquired concerning the origins of producing images in motion. Could have spent more time here.


My husband "admonishes" me while descending the staircase because I am lovingly caressing the banister and marveling at the newel posts. Think of the germs, he instructs. (Aren't I the walking germ factory, belching out infective little beauties with each breath I wheeze?? for God's Sake!) Turns out that Francis Ford imported this very hard wood from overseas somewhere, hired carpenters to reside here for two years in order to build it on site, sprung for alot of tools because they would become dull or break after only a couple weeks use on this wood and there is not a nail anywhere! All pegs or mortise and spline construction. I'm telling you now. I know quality when I feel it.
The tour was informative, the guide was expert and there were some tastings done in the cellars. The estate has some gorgeous old, imported eucalyptus trees, olives and giant sequoias. An impressive story of the legacy of Niebaum. Coppolla chose to save and resurrect the tradition of making quality wines here when this winery was being driven into the ground during the 80's. The wines that were chosen for the final tastings ranged in price from $30 a bottle to $120 a bottle. Fabulous. We left and ate at the Rutherford grill across the street.


Our goal was to make it to Calistoga (named for California and Saratoga) and then return via the other side of the valley known as the Siverado trail. We make our next stop at Clos Pegase because I have read that it has some impressive architecture and a fine art collection. The tour, which we sort of "glommed onto", was a big disappointment. It was free, but there wasn't any comparison in quality. And no samples.


The rest of the day is a blur to me because I am sick. We stop at a Starbuck's to get iced coffee and sandwiches for eating in the room that night. It's along day with a lot of driving. What a dream it would have been to make it in the real Tuckermobile. I know quality when I see it.

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