It's the fourth of February and the sun is shining in the mountains and the temperature is almost at 60 degrees by 10 am. We have been picked up by the driver and guide at our hotel and are heading up to Jakhu Hill Temple on the pinnacle of the mountain. We were advised to have the hotel pack us a lunch, since we will be gone the entire day. Our "lunch" is presented in two white boxes tied with a pink bow. The boxes are a foot square and 6 inches deep! We will not be able to finish all of this and indeed end up sharing our fare with the driver and Sanjeev.
Jakhu Hill Temple is devoted to Hanuman, the monkey god. Our young waiters, Truth and Love, advise us at breakfast that, indeed, the temple grounds are swarming with monkeys. They caution me to take off my eyeglasses because the monkeys love them and will steal them off of my head. They also caution us not to carry any food out where it can be seen. I was a bit puzzled because we were finishing a rather hefty plate of fresh fruit and I couldn't imagine being hungry again in another hour. But all would become clear very soon.
I thought that the "drive" up to Simla yesterday was tough. Today is the trial by fire. Because there is no traffic allowed on the Mall, the driver must double-back and take single lane ( and I use the term "lane" very loosely) alleyways around the city proper. These are the only access to some residences and they dip and twist around buildings at unreasonable angles of descent. Jakhu Temple is at the other end of town and up another couple hundred feet or more. There are seven or eight acute switchbacks which require the driver to execute a three point turn on a life threatening precipice. A small error puts the wheels over the edge and it's sayonara to the home crowd. The vehicle for today is a standard shift. You get the picture.
Surviving the road, we arrive at a beautiful gate to the temple grounds. We are greeted by several monkeys who scamper on ahead of us and leap from railing to step to tree. We are not approached by them and I can't help but be fascinated by the little ones riding atop the adults. They are just cute as hell and much more athletic than us (the two geezers that are looking at several hundred feet of an uphill climb in an environment that is already 8,000 ft. above sea level). Wasn't bad, taken slowly, and the mountain air was delicious. We arrive at a view that is a show stopper.
Jakhu Hill Temple is devoted to Hanuman, the monkey god. Our young waiters, Truth and Love, advise us at breakfast that, indeed, the temple grounds are swarming with monkeys. They caution me to take off my eyeglasses because the monkeys love them and will steal them off of my head. They also caution us not to carry any food out where it can be seen. I was a bit puzzled because we were finishing a rather hefty plate of fresh fruit and I couldn't imagine being hungry again in another hour. But all would become clear very soon.
I thought that the "drive" up to Simla yesterday was tough. Today is the trial by fire. Because there is no traffic allowed on the Mall, the driver must double-back and take single lane ( and I use the term "lane" very loosely) alleyways around the city proper. These are the only access to some residences and they dip and twist around buildings at unreasonable angles of descent. Jakhu Temple is at the other end of town and up another couple hundred feet or more. There are seven or eight acute switchbacks which require the driver to execute a three point turn on a life threatening precipice. A small error puts the wheels over the edge and it's sayonara to the home crowd. The vehicle for today is a standard shift. You get the picture.
Surviving the road, we arrive at a beautiful gate to the temple grounds. We are greeted by several monkeys who scamper on ahead of us and leap from railing to step to tree. We are not approached by them and I can't help but be fascinated by the little ones riding atop the adults. They are just cute as hell and much more athletic than us (the two geezers that are looking at several hundred feet of an uphill climb in an environment that is already 8,000 ft. above sea level). Wasn't bad, taken slowly, and the mountain air was delicious. We arrive at a view that is a show stopper.
The Himalayas spread out around us in all directions. Perched atop this peak is a multi-colored-spandangled-Hansel-and-Gretel-treat that is the temple to Hanuman. We climb a few more steps, take off our shoes and enter gingerly. In the center of the room is a platform with a "fireplace" type structure niched into the wall at its other end. In the center of the platform sits the holy man in black trousers and a tattered vest. Around him and the small fire burning, are all types of trinkets and pottery and symbolic items that are a mystery to us. He has in front of him a bowl with corn and grain of some sort. Sanjeev kneels and speaks to the man in Hindi and then gives him a money offering for the temple. In return, he is given a handful of the food mixture as a type of blessing. Aha! The monkeys obviously know that this is what has been going on for centuries in this little establishment and will be waiting for him when we exit the building. Sanjeev then gives a tour about the room and explains the story of Hanuman as depicted in the wall murals. As we are leaving, a toddler with his grandfather enters the room and the young child becomes totally mesmerized by our foreign look and talk. Grandpa encourages the child to offer me a hand to touch. But I am touched by the kindness, trust and generosity.
There are two other smaller temple buildings to investigate and we also stop to watch the monkey antics. A very peaceful place. I hated to leave so soon, especially since the only way back down off the mountain was the horror show of clutch and brake.
Off to Kufri animal sanctuary. As we travel up another mountain, the scenery takes on a whole new flavor. More and more often we are seeing the roadway give way to people on horseback rather than behind a wheel. Soon there are large stands of horses by the wayside, saddled and ready to go but without a rider. Now, I have been quiet and endured terror for the sake of beauty and adventure and everyone's sanity. I have also been inside of a large, heavy metal container that has some protective quality to it. Lurching down the sides of steep mountain grades on horseback is real fodder (pardon me for that) for nightmares. I mention to Tucker.....softly, mind you...that I'm not so sure about ......
Sanjeev turns in his seat and says, "I figured that I wouldn't even ask you about the pony ride. But would you like to see the zoo?" What a wonderful man. We pass on the zoo and opt for tea on the terrace at the Wildflower Hotel. The Wildflower is as beautiful as the Oberoi Cecil. It is located at the end of a long passageway straight up to the top of another mountain crest. I do feel like a monkey hopping from one vantage point to the other today. We are treated graciously and like royalty. Monkey Gods from the States are given Tea and Biscuits. So sane. Such a gorgeous view. Such a beautiful day.
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